This morning we woke up, opened our curtains, and looked out on yet another spectacular landscape of the terraced hills of Portugal reflected in the still water of the river.
Problem was, we were not supposed to be here. We were to have been sailing since early this morning, but instead we were docked just across the river from where we were when we went to bed last night. Apparently the authorities in Spain and Portugal had decided to do a major water release as water levels in places were getting too high. Problem is, when they release the water it increases the speed of the river which makes it more difficult to navigator through some of the narrowest passages. Being one of the largest ships allowed on the Douro River, this is especially an issue navigating into and out of the locks. So, our departure from Pinhao was delayed from 6:30 am until 1:00 pm which also resulted in cancellation of the tours we had planned for this afternoon.
Viking, however, is always prepared. We quickly had a new tour created and we were off on a walking tour of Pinhao.
We walked along the waterfront and then climbed up the hill to the town. The primary focal point of our visit was the train station where on the walls they have tiles that tell the story of historic wine making in the Douro Valley.
The picture below illustrates the use of boats to transport all the wine from the vineyards and wineries where it is made to Porto where it is aged and stored. It is too hot and temperatures change too much to cellar the wine near the vineyards. Instead it is taken to specially designed warehouses that maintain a more constant temperature for aging the wines.
All the harvesting on the terraces is still done by hand (if they used machines it might disturb the limestone structures that make up the hillsides too much and cause them eventually to fall in landslides).
Harvesters used to carry 100 pound wicker baskets of grapes on their shoulders to the top of the hill where it would be made into wine. Now they only carry about 50 pounds that are in plastic trays the better protect the grapes from being crushed while moving.
After our tour we sat out on the patio of a 5-star hotel to enjoy the view of the river while sipping a white and a rose port and nibbling on goat cheese and chorizo (which had a deep, smoky flavor).
We had to stop for the classic souvenir picture with the town sign.
We then went back onboard to the shade on the Sun Deck where we waited to here the fateful announcement that the rest of our shore activities for the day had been cancelled. The arrival at our next port of call, Barca d'Alva, had been moved from 2:15 until 9:00 pm.
We headed down to the dining room for lunch to our window table where we watched the ship pull out (finally).
The best part of river cruising, for us, is the time spent traveling down the river. Today's news was actually good news to us. We would much rather be cruising the river than doing non-stop tours. Here is a railroad bridge that is obviously very old along our journey up the river.
This is one of the narrowest channels in the river. They had to cut it out of rock over many years in the 19th century to complete the waterway. One reason we were so delayed is because we had to wait several times for up to 45 minutes for another boat to pass us going the opposite direction through these one-way channels.
Here was yet another lock we transited where it was just inches from the top of the wheelhouse to the bottom of the roadway going over the bridge. The captain had to review the clearance several times before proceeding.
This was one of the locks as we entered it. It is kind of like having your boat put in a jail cell. I think the only crime people on this boat may have been guilty of would be falling asleep too early.
This is one of the other riverboats we had to wait for to pass us.
Tonight our dinner was a buffet titled "Tastes of Portugal". It was a giant spread local specialties. I enjoyed the duck, the chorizo, the Portuguese beef stew, and the caramel custard for dessert.
Tomorrow we are on the bus at 8:30 for our trip to Salamanca, Spain.
Bon Nuit.
Walking Steps Count: 5,190 steps with our tour of Pinhao and walking around the boat.
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